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  1. DdlR is offline
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    Posted On:
    7/22/2009 1:20pm

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     Style: Bartitsu

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    If you use loops of bunjee cord instead of chain, it cuts down on a whole lot of noise (and, I'm assuming, reduces potential damage to the support).
  2. Kuma is offline

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    Posted On:
    7/22/2009 1:35pm


     Style: blunt trauma

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    Quote Originally Posted by DdlR View Post
    If you use loops of bunjee cord instead of chain, it cuts down on a whole lot of noise (and, I'm assuming, reduces potential damage to the support).
    Are we talking a single bungee connection to the mount, or a complete replacement of all chain? And could you then mount it to several points on the ceiling at once, like hitting two adjacent joists at two points each?

    I know that would make it significantly more annoying to move it out of the way when you need the space, but this is something I'm pondering myself, and I know exactly nothing about actual construction.
  3. newbie999 is offline

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    Posted On:
    7/22/2009 1:40pm


     Style: BJJ, MT

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    Support brace concept to illustrate what I was referring. Will get a real pictures for all:

  4. Angry Mandrill is offline

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    Posted On:
    7/22/2009 1:52pm


     Style: bjj

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    Quote Originally Posted by DdlR View Post
    If you use loops of bunjee cord instead of chain, it cuts down on a whole lot of noise (and, I'm assuming, reduces potential damage to the support).
    how many bungees did you use? i can see several of them together being strong enough to do the job. strong straps, like the kind used by moving companies for strapping **** down, would also work well i think.

    i use the chain 'cause i had it lying around. i put a couple screws through links up on the joists to keep it from sliding back and forth and chewing up the wood. works fine.
  5. DdlR is offline
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    Posted On:
    7/22/2009 1:58pm

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     Style: Bartitsu

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kuma View Post
    Are we talking a single bungee connection to the mount, or a complete replacement of all chain? And could you then mount it to several points on the ceiling at once, like hitting two adjacent joists at two points each?

    I know that would make it significantly more annoying to move it out of the way when you need the space, but this is something I'm pondering myself, and I know exactly nothing about actual construction.
    I haven't hung a bag for about 10 years, but IIRC I used the chains that came with the bag and replaced the "hanging chain" (which was intended to connect the D-ring to the ceiling mount) with 3-4 loops of heavy-duty bunjee cord. I guess you could replace all the chains with bunjee, but the method I described did significantly reduce the noise and vibration.
  6. Angry Mandrill is offline

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    Posted On:
    7/22/2009 2:07pm


     Style: bjj

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    Quote Originally Posted by newbie999 View Post
    Support brace concept to illustrate what I was referring. Will get a real pictures for all:

    that won't be strong enough to hold your bag. you want to go into the joists themselves. if you want to do something like the diagram, you'll need to span the joists with a vertically-oriented block, not a horizontally-oriented one. in other words, take the 'support brace' in the diagram and flip it so that the wide part is up and down, not side to side. the flat, wide part of the wood is weakest. the edge, with a vertical load, is strongest. that's why joists stand on their edges. all that said, this still won't be as strong as going directly into a joist.
    Last edited by Angry Mandrill; 7/22/2009 2:14pm at . Reason: clarity
  7. newbie999 is offline

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    Posted On:
    7/22/2009 3:02pm


     Style: BJJ, MT

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    Gotcha thanks for the clarification
  8. jnp is offline
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    Posted On:
    7/22/2009 3:39pm

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     Style: BJJ, wrestling

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    newbie999, if the first picture you posted is your attic, a single joist will support the weight, but it might sag over time enough to crack your ceiling sheetrock. A 2 x 6 between two joists or the metal angle bracket you posted later would work. If you use the 2 x 6, make sure the board is oriented in the same manner as the joists. In other words, the 6 inch part will be in the vertical plane and the 2 inch part in the horizontal plane. Also make sure to use screws suitable for framing, like Philips Deck Drive screws or stainless steel ones. Do NOT use sheetrock screws. Pre-drill the screw holes with a drill bit to prevent the wood from splitting.

    For reference, my credentials are that I'm a professional carpenter.
  9. Angry Mandrill is offline

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    Posted On:
    7/22/2009 3:58pm


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    nicely done, jnp, waiting until after the windbaggery to speak up with your pro cred.

    all that said, do you think it'd be stronger going into the joist itself and cross-bracing the joist in question to its neighbors? a 2x6 with screws doesn't seem as strong. possibly he could strap another 2x-something-bigger alongside the joist to prevent sagging?
  10. Vorpal is offline
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    Posted On:
    7/22/2009 3:59pm

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     Style: BJJ

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnp View Post

    For reference, my credentials are that I'm a professional carpenter.

    Since that has now proved relevant to the fighting arts I believe a tag is in order.
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