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Posted On:
6/03/2009 12:17pm
Style: sambo, stuff--
Interesting. Thank you very much. :-)
The article misses out on one very common rustblocker of ye olden days though:
flax/linseed oil
To my experience it works very well, even long-term and under harsh conditions, like when exposed to sweat or sea-water.
Its no good for fine mechanics, as it tends to harden (the effect is called "verharzen" in german, sorry I don't know the englisch word for that). The hardening is a more-or-less wanted effect on blades though. Gives them a very good protective cover against corrosion.
For best effect it should be heated up to about 60-70 degrees celsius and then applied while still hot (old family trick, which can be relieably traced back four generations, probably was in use much longer). -
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Posted On:
6/03/2009 12:49pm -
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Posted On:
6/03/2009 9:36pm -
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Posted On:
6/04/2009 12:07am -
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Posted On:
6/04/2009 1:16am -
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Posted On:
6/04/2009 8:43am -
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6/04/2009 10:28am -
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Posted On:
6/04/2009 1:25pm
Style: aikido, medieval fencing--
i uses olive oil on my harness.
it seems that you need to lay it on the first time , and as long as you dry the metal after rain or use (horse sweat is very corrosive).
It really does a fantastic job.
that beiong said, i oil it each time i use it.
in the event of not drying properly, the rust is very easy to get rid of, just wipe or use a washing up scratcher.
I can not explain it but it does not work well on swords, espeically if stay in a wood and leather scabbard.
from what i have read, in mediaval time they used olive oil mixed with salpeter. (but i would not be surprised if armour was painted)
I never tries flax/linseed oil, is it close to olive oil?
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Posted On:
6/04/2009 1:46pm



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Posted On:
6/02/2009 4:47pm
Style: Bowie
Article: Protecting Against Rust: Part I