Finally got the smak sticks but either the quality control is strange
or I have an odd abberation between the black and the red stick.
i can' find my camera right now so no pics til tmrw
but the black smakstick I have appears to be one inch longer than the red one.
they also appear to be using two different weaves for the sheath. (the black one has a smaller weave than the red one)
also the punyo on the black one is slightly larger than the punyo on the red one
not sure what to make of this disparity. just seems odd that they aren't identical
have any of you experienced this when buying from SMAK?
I've got an odd request, if you can manage to mark it down. Which sticks give the worst nylon burns? I find this almost more annoying than welts and bruises, when someone gives me a good slap across the arm, and I end up with a 3 inch long scab a few days later.
I'd use wood, with some gloves for protection. Maybe headgear too, if your not feeling adventerous.
Nylon burns sounds like something that happens after you see a hooker.
yeah i'll test for that and add it in. probably gonna need some extended sessions to test for it.
Originally Posted by Ryno
it might be early to say but it seems like the SMAK stik and the ps28c ATF model
are the ones most likely to cause burns/blisters due to the nylon material and specific
texture of the sheath. they feel the most "rough" or "abrasive"
the ATF ps28n and actionflex don't appear to be prone to it. I've been sparring with actionflex fora while and never experienced the burn.
Yeah. stfu and read the OP next time.
Originally Posted by BudoMonkey
you've obviously never trained in FMA.
normal wood sticks splinters, shatters under stress and would cause injuries.
thats why FMA uses Rattan normally except sparring live rattan all the time = injuries.
doesn't behave like other woods when it starts to break. it breaks off as one piece or it "shreds".
Padded sticks are used to try and find a good compromise between safety and pain/realism for everyday/regular sparring.
The comparison I'm working on is to provide a comparison to help determine what padded stick is right for a person's needs.
ie. a beginner who wants no chance of getting injured / light sparring only / messing around.
or maybe light to medium technical sparring
or something that could stand up to extremely heavy sparring and feels as close to rattan while minimizing injury
also price, affordability/core replacement and other things play into it because these sticks aren't as cheap as live rattan.
So- did you finish the comparison, Variance? I'm in the market for a new pair of padded sticks and wanted to know what you thought was good for minimal / no gear sparring.
Check out the plastic trainers a few posts down the page. I want to get these and the atienza blade simulators for comparison. More for drilling than for sparring, but working on edge orientation is always cool with me.
Those look pretty cool, but the article two posts down caught my eye:
Perhaps they're talking about limb destruction here, and not defanging the snake? Because in my experience, whacking a guy in the hand is a really good way to get him to drop his weapon.
Originally Posted by Sticks and Knives
Y'know i'm not sure. In the style he trains, limbs are "targets of oppurtunity" and not primary strategies.
With a dropped weapon, someone can still charge in and tackle you. If I had a choice of either a weapon hand, or a clean shot to someone's head, I'd take the head every time. If the head was guarded, but the weapon hand was available, then I'd hit the weapon hand.
I've fought and won stickfights after breaking my weapon hand. It's not the fight ender that some people will have you believe. It's a legitimate target and can be a good one, but you have to keep things in perspective. Humans have a lot more weapons than a snake, which only has fangs. Even if you manage to eliminate the stick, you've still got to account for secondary and terciary weapons. Knives, punches, kicks, knees, elbows, headbutts, grappling can still all come into play.
I'm not saying that you should always be a headhunter, but if it is available it is a superior target than a hand is.