Thread: Recommend a 1911 for me.
8/06/2014 4:56pm, #51
Again, if you anticipate future gunsmith customization, be aware that some gunsmiths prefer not to work on Alloy or Investment Cast frames (and investment cast slides). This thread spurred me to a bit more research into Kimber, and I believe the lower level models I recommended are alloy. Just an FYI. Rock Island is probably the most reputable budget 1911, and I don't think you would regret purchasing one. They are investment cast (again, you may have issues with snobby gunsmiths), but now that they have their manufacturing processes sorted out, they are as reliable and as accurate as any 1911, pretty much. Really good, tight tolerances too.
I personally think alloy and Investment Cast frames/slides are just fine, but I just wanted you to be aware that you may run into issues with elitist gunsmiths if that is the road you want to go down someday.
Last edited by Cassius; 8/06/2014 5:01pm at . Reason: clarification"No. Listen to me because I know what I'm talking about here." -- Hannibal
8/06/2014 5:43pm, #52
I once test fired the Para Ordanance LDA (Light Double Action) and have to say that I went into it skeptical about a DAO 1911 but it made a convert of me.
I never followed up on any research regarding its flaws, but if and when I get some scratch for a new toy I'm going to check it out again.
8/06/2014 5:48pm, #53
You don't know how bad I want to post "Nevermind, I bought a PS4" right now.
8/06/2014 10:14pm, #54
As someone mentioned early on in the thread, it mostly comes down to what features you want and how much you're willing to spend. Here is a thread on the 1911 Forum you may find informative:
For me, if I had a $1.5K budget, I'd go with a Colt Wiley Clapp Government Model. One does pay a bit of a premium for the Colt name, but most of the price is driven by labor costs (all union shop in the USA and some processes still being done by hand on original equipment). The Wiley Clapp Government Model is a semi-custom Series '70 with most of more contemporary modifications that many shooters look for in a 1911 (lowered and flared ejection port, improved sights, undercut trigger guard, beavertail grip safety, checkering on the front strap). I own an original Series '70 and have priced doing these mods ala cart and they would add well over $1K to a base pistol that normally goes for around $1K.
The only thing I don't like on the WC is the original small nub of a thumb safety, but safeties are easy to swap out.
If I had a bit of a higher budget, I'd probably look for a Les Baer Thunder Ranch Special. The only thing I don't like on these is the front cocking serrations. I hate FCS from both a practical and aesthetic standpoint - they tear up holsters and are ugly as sin - but that's just my opinion. I've never owned a Les Baer, but have heard nothing but good about them. Oooh, wait, I just found a used one on Gunpoker for less than a Colt WC Government Model. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=433401440 The trigger does not look original, though. :(
8/07/2014 6:40am, #55
- Join Date
- Mar 2006
The gunsmiths I know who offer general repair services are not idealogical and snobby about what kind of gun they work on. In fact, almost every working gunsmith makes a significant portion of their income working on complete pieces of **** because people never throw away guns and everybody has an old piece of **** that belonged to their grandfather that they want fixed. That's just part of the business.
Working with alloys is no different than working with carbon steel. As far as the level of difficulty, the most challenging metals to work with are probably super hard carbon steels, like Mauser bolts and soforth.
The more likely reason you may find gunsmiths who shy away from working on non-carbon steel guns is because you have more refinishing options with carbon steel. Repairs often require refinishing and every finishing option that a gunsmith offers requires a significant investment in equipment and supplies, and each option requires a good bit of space in their shop.
The most common offerings are caustic bluing and parkerization. Neither of those can be done on aluminum or stainless. Actually, stainless can be blued but it requires a completely different solution and probably a whole new set of bluing tanks since the gunsmith's existing tanks will be full of solution for bluing carbon steels.
Anodizing is an option with aluminum but very few gunsmiths are set up to offer anodizing. Most gunsmiths will offer some type of spray-on finish like Cerakote. If they do, it's very unlikely they would turn down work because of some bias against alloys. But again, Cerakote requires a paint booth, a sprayer, an oven, a blasting cabinet, a compressor, a selection of paints, etc, etc. If they don't do spray-on finishes, you're probably **** out of luck if your gun isn't made of carbon steel - not because of snobbery or elitism, but because of dollars and cents.
8/07/2014 9:44am, #56
I bought a Smith & Wesson officers frame 1911. Great gun.
Cannot go wrong with a S&W.
8/07/2014 10:44am, #57
8/07/2014 10:59am, #58
8/08/2014 7:04pm, #59
Last edited by Cassius; 8/08/2014 7:09pm at . Reason: clarity"No. Listen to me because I know what I'm talking about here." -- Hannibal
8/08/2014 7:13pm, #60
Oh, I am not, but I asked to get all of this information. I'm not a gun noob, but I'm not much above a beginner.