Posted On:4/27/2011 1:09am
PDS Rifles Style: Univ. Florida Kickboxing
Made one to use when I try out IDPA. Its mainly made from Kydex, tension adjustable by way of fiber washers. The clips are steel. The holster is lined with leather as well.
The draw I settled on is nice and quick yet held the gun in nice and tight. It didn't shift around when mounted to my cheap rescue belt.
I think the durability is decent, but it ain't no military grade.
It took me about 3-4 hours to make it to my satisfaction. I think leather/kydex will be the fastest to make; thats probably what I'll make for my wife's IWB as well as my own IWB.
The fit and finish is pretty amatuer and my choice of hardware looks cheap. I certainly have more respect for guys who do pro work on holsters now. It was a learning experience for me but I'm happy it came out practical and usable.
I will post step by step how-tos since there are no holster maker sponsors on this website for me to piss off. I spent 70 dollars total for the materials, and I have enough to make 2 more IWB holsters using both leather and kydex, and 2 single magazine holsters.
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Law Enforcement Firearms
Posted On:4/27/2011 5:18am
Style: cult of crapple, ATTACK
Is that a Px4?
Posted On:4/27/2011 11:34am
Would you recommed someone making their own holster over just buying one? Is it cheaper?
Posted On:4/27/2011 2:39pm
Depends, if you are pretty crafty its pretty easy to do. Just read up on it a little bit, get plenty of hardware. You can re-mold kydex multiple times, so that helps a lot.
I haven't bought any holsters so I'm glad this one came out like it did :)
Posted On:4/27/2011 2:41pm
Posted On:4/27/2011 6:13pm
Win, I daresay.
pro nonsense self defense
Posted On:4/27/2011 6:28pm
Style: FMA, dumbek, Indian clubs
Looks good to me, but I'm not much of a shooter.
His heart was visible, and the dismal sack that maketh excrement of what is eaten.
Posted On:4/27/2011 6:50pm
That's really nice, man.
Posted On:4/27/2011 8:55pm
Knee jerk reaction was going to be "wtf stupid". Saw pics. Wtf, looks good. I'd use it.
Before you start, CHECK YOUR GUN. CLEAR IT OUT, CONFIRM EMPTY CHAMBER. DON'T POINT IT AT ANYONE INCLUDING YOURSELF. ALSO DON'T SWEEP WALLS WHERE YOU KNOW THERE ARE PEOPLE ON THE OTHER SIDE.
No pictures because I was impatient and I wanted to hurry up and finish my holster.
1. Order the materials.
I used nice, thick kydex for durability, but a thinner one will work also. I used 0.093, but a 0.060 should be fine for most purposes. Thicker ones are harder to mold.
I also ordered steel belt clips. I ordered 4 for my wife's holster
You'll need a bunch of 1/4" chicago screws. (aka screw posts) If you go with the heavier ga. kydex like I did, it might be wise to go a bit bigger, like 3/8ths if you can find them. I ordered 20.
For tension adjustability you'll need a bunch of fiber washers. I got like 10, but get more.
You'll also need a plastic scoring knife. Xacto knife works also but takes longer, just get the scoring knife.
1-1.5oz leather for lining. I got glazed pigskin for cheapness.
Need a drill and 7/32nd drill bit.
200 grit sandpaper
Not crucial but very helpful: jigsaw and dremel with cutting wheel
Oven and heat gun.
PVC cement. Get one in a can thats in liquid form.
I also ordered 9-10oz leather for future projects.
I have enough to do 3-4 holsters, cost me 60 bucks.
Get your handgun and figure out how tall the holster needs to be. Mine was OWB for IDPA competitions, so I wanted one thats tall enough to cover the tip of my handgun but will still protect it from scratches and such when I lean on objects, fall, etc. A fully closed one will protect it better but I also wanted capability to drain the holster if water/sweat got into it. Mark it using a crayon or tape.
Remember: it needs to be long enough to cover all of the trigger and trigger guard. You may think that you will have trouble getting all three of your fingers onto the grip, but don't worry about that, we will remedy that later.
Tape up an appropriate length of pencil or something between the front sight post and the rear sights.
Then measure how wide you want it to be. The inside piece will have to be smaller than the outside piece. Start by figuring out the width of the inside piece: place the handgun on the kydex sheet, and leave enough space for the following:
-1-1.5" all around the outline of the handgun, except for the barrel tip.
-make sure your belt clips will fit also.
Mark it. Now for the outer piece.
Leave enough as the bottom piece, and then to horizontal dimensions, leave enough for 70% of the width of your handgun. Mark that too.
Sand down the smooth side with 200 grit sandpaper. rough it up real good, especially along the top and bottom edges.
Cut appropriately. Take a straight edge, press down with the knife and go through it 3-4 times. Bend the kydex by hand and it will snap. It snaps clean too!
Prepare your mold. The best is medium density closed cell foams. Pipe insulation material will work well too. Here is my secret: I used my wife's yoga mat for the bottom piece. If I had enough yoga matts I would use it for both sides, I think its the best material out there for a mold, short of vacuum bagging which imo is unecessarily expensive. You can customize the depth by layering the yoga mat.
The bottom piece needed to be flatter, so I used 4 layers of yoga mat. The top piece is going hold more of the gun, so I used my (wife's) temperpedic pillow. I wanted 70% of the gun held by the outer piece.
You want to sandwich it in this order: hard surface (floor recommended) - foam (yoga mat) - kydex - gun - kydex - foam (pillow) - wood plank (I used a hardcover book). You'll do the bottom first, then the top.
At this point, preheat the oven to 250 degrees.
While oven is heating, place the gun the bottom kydex sheet and mark where you want it to be. You can tape it for marking too, as long as it is a paper based tape that won't melt.
Continued on the next post
Last edited by dwkfym; 4/27/2011 9:06pm at .
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